Sunday, July 27, 2008

Japan - Short and Sweet

I left for Japan in March 2007 to teach English in Koga, Ibaraki – a small town an hour and a half north of Tokyo. I knew no Japanese (except for domo arigato Mr. Roboto), bought a travel book (that I never read) and got on the plane just looking for a change. Why Japan? Why not? It was easy to find a good paying teaching job, I’d never been before and figured Japan’s about as big a change as you could get. I had no idea what I was getting into.

The transition and adjustment to such a different way of life was pretty tough. It’s a very regulated and restrained society with a surplus of rules, both spoken and unspoken. Seats are assigned at movie theaters, looking people in the eye is sometimes disrespectful, and etiquette often takes priority over logic. There’s a lot of work, very little relaxation and “the system” tends to make things (of any nature) take a while to get done.

On the other hand, Japan is incredibly safe, virtually crime-free and clean. The subways and trains are spotless and ALWAYS on time. The crowded streets are remarkably quiet and the people are polite, helpful and once they open up to you, they’re some of the kindest people you’ll ever meet.

I left Japan a year later, proficient in basic Japanese, with a Japanese girlfriend (who speaks NO English and was the main motivation for me to become proficient in Japanese), and a love and appreciation for one of the most unique and strangely appealing countries I’ve ever been to.

It’s obviously impossible to experience all aspects of Japanese culture on a vacation. However, a nice two week trip is enough to have fun, get a good feel for the country and get back home before going crazy from culture shock. Here are some tips.

Places to stay:

Ikebukuro Plaza - Capsule Hotel: Claustrophobics need not apply

  • Price: 3,500 yen/night ($35) includes:
    • Your own sleeping capsule which:
      • Is a bit longer than a coffin and tall enough for you to sit up and crawl around in.
      • Contains a futon mattress, alarm clock, radio, TV, small reading light, pillow and blanket.
      • Is arranged with other capsules in rows, stacked two-high in the sleeping rooms on each floor of the hotel.
    • Your own locker in an adjacent room on the same floor as your capsule.
    • Bathroom (sinks and toilets) on the same floor as your capsule and locker.
    • Access to the public bath/shower/spa/sauna located on the bottom floor of the hotel – very relaxing and refreshing.
    • Your own kimono for the night
  • Location: 2-12-3 Ikebukuro Toshima-ku, Tokyo (near the JR line Ikebukuro Station in the Ikebukuro area of Tokyo)
  • Contact:
    • Phone: 03-3590-7770
  • Pro’s:
    • Cheap
    • Convenient
      • Fast check-in
      • No curfew - will accept guests as space permits (I checked in at 11:30pm with no reservations and no hassles)
    • Location
      • In the center of Ikebukuro – one of Tokyo’s most popular, fun and vibrant areas
    • Clean
      • Like most things in Japan
    • Quiet
      • It’s initially weird when you walk into the overpopulated, dark and humming sleeping room of your floor, but once you’ve crawled into your capsule and shut the curtain, you’re off to slumberland. Only in Japan can you be stacked among hundreds of people and still feel alone.
    • Cool
      • Very unique, Japanese experience
  • Cons:
    • Female guests are not permitted
      • Some capsule hotels have women-only floors and take female guests, however many others (like the one I stayed at) don’t. These restrictions are definitely something to keep in mind and inquire about when planning a trip and searching for hotels of in Japan. I’ve found that it is usually the cheaper places such as capsule hotels and hostels that have this men only policy.
    • Not much space – but if you have to have a big area to stretch out in:
      • You shouldn’t be in Japan
      • You shouldn’t be at a capsule hotel in Japan
    • The front desk staff speak very little English.
  • Side notes:
    • Don’t be surprised – you must take off your shoes and put them in a locker in the lobby before you enter the hotel. From then on it’s all socks and slippers! Get used to taking your shoes off upon entering most semi-traditional/traditional indoor places in Japan – it’s a sign of respect. Don’t worry about it either – they’ll quickly and politely remind you of their no-shoes policy.
    • Here’s for a good listing of capsule hotels in Tokyo: http://gojapan.about.com/cs/accommodation/a/tokyocapsule1.htm


Asakusa Central Hotel: Nice hotel, great location

  • Price: Single rooms start at 9,135 yen/night ($90) includes:
    • Single dorm-sized hotel room with your basic hotel amenities (twin bed, desk, chair, TV, closet, phone, private bathroom/shower, room cleaning)
    • Internet modems are available and there’s wireless access in the lobby
    • Access to public bath/shower/spa/sauna (men only)
  • Location: 1-5-3 Asakusa, Taitou-ku, Tokyo (Asakusa area of Tokyo – see website for map/access)
  • Contact:
  • Pro’s:
    • Location
      • The Asakusa area is one of the most popular locations for tourists and locals alike (more details on Asakusa below).
    • Comfortable and convenient
      • No curfews, quiet comfortable rooms, friendly front desk staff that speak enough English to answer any questions and ensure a pleasant stay.
  • Cons:
    • None – maybe a tad pricey
  • Side notes:
    • This was the first place I stayed when I arrived in Japan and it was perfect - especially since my company was paying the tab for all us new hires.


Hotel New Otani Tokyo: Snazzy, Luxurious, Upscale Digs

  • Price: Single rooms start at 36,005 yen/night ($360) includes:
    • More than I have space to list here (see website)
  • Location: 4-1 Kioi-cho, Chiyuda-ku, Tokyo (see website for map/access)
  • Contact:
  • Pro’s:
    • Everything – brand new, beautiful hotel, great area, luxurious amenities, you name it…
  • Cons:
    • Expensive – way out of my league
  • Side notes:
    • I haven’t actually stayed here, but I had friends visiting who did and they loved it.
    • When the Boston Red Sox and Oakland A’s came to Japan for the 2008 MLB season opener, this is where they stayed – big league baby!


Things to keep in mind when looking for a hotel:

  • Many hotels in Japan (especially the more traditional ones) have curfews and lock the front doors at a certain time each night.
  • If you’re like me and are more inclined to grip-it and rip-it, finding a cheap place to sleep on the fly isn’t very difficult in the bigger cities (Tokyo, Yokohama, Osaka), but if you end up in smaller cities and towns along the way don’t be surprised if you end up paying about 6,000yen/night ($60).



Places to see:

Tokyo:

  • Asakusa
    • Sensoji Temple
    • Wandering the narrow, sometimes dark, sometimes lantern lit, sometimes neon lit streets in Asakusa you realize you are officially in Japan.
    • Asakusa was the center of Tokyo a few decades back, now giving way to the more modern and trendy areas like Shinjuku and Shibuya, but still maintaining its traditional and charming character.
    • Great selection of restaurants.
    • Places to buy souvenirs
      • Kappabashi street is full of stores selling fake food displays that restaurants show in their front windows so foreigners who can’t read the menu know what they’re getting into – real funny gifts.
      • The vendors lining the walkway to Sensoji Temple (while very crowded) have lots of cool stuff to take home.
      • The streets and alleyways in the Asakusa area have shops for almost anything – kimonos, swords, trinkets, clothing, food, electronics…the list goes on.
      • The dollar stores in Japan (hyaku-yen: 100yen) are also clutch sources of cool, cheap, “authentic” gifts. Great for your Uncle Leo who’d never know the difference anyway.
  • Ueno Park
    • Located right next to the Ueno train station
    • Huge, pretty, packed with stuff:
      • Museums
      • Zoo
      • Street performers
      • Concert hall
      • Merry-go-round
      • Baseball diamond
        • Local recreational teams and friends playing for “fun” – the players take it very seriously and the result is hilarity.
      • Gorgeous when the cherry blossoms (Sakura) are out – usually the last couple weeks in March.
  • Shibuya
    • Busiest intersection in Japan
      • It’s the place you’ve most likely seen in movies or commercials with tons of people, lights and huge TV screens on the fronts and sides of skyscrapers blaring advertisements and announcements to the masses.
    • Hachiko – dog statue
      • Outside of the Shibuya station is the statue of Hachiko, Japan’s most famous dog. Apparently this dog would walk his master to the train station on the way to work and then meet him there to walk back with him on the way home, every day. But then, one day, his master became ill on the job and died before he could return home. The dog continued to go to the same spot every day, waiting for his master to come home, but he never did. After Hachiko’s death, a life-size statue of him was built in honor of his loyalty. Today it’s a popular meeting point for locals in Shibuya.
    • Shibuya is one of, if not the most popular places in Tokyo for trendy restaurants, shopping, bars and nightlife.
  • Shinjuku
    • The Tokyo Government Buildings
      • These skyscrapers near the Shinjuku train station provide the best view of Tokyo I’ve seen. Even better, it’s free and open late (‘till 11pm). I recommend going around sunset. Beautiful sprawling view of Tokyo - sometimes you can see Mt. Fuji off in the distance. At night the red lights speckling the sea of buildings below are calmly mesmerizing.
    • Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden
      • Large, serene park and garden – a very Japanese experience.
    • The Shinjuku area is also a very popular place for shopping, bars, restaurants, nightlife.

Kyoto:

  • Former capital of Japan, located 2 hours from Tokyo via the Shinkansen bullet train.
  • Cultural center of Japan with a fascinating blend of old and new

Kyoto Hotels:

  • Hotel Granvia Kyoto: Really Nice
    • Price: Single rooms start around 180,000yen/night ($180) includes:
      • Everything you could think of and some stuff you probably couldn’t (see website for details)
    • Location: JR Kyoto Station (literally connected to the train station)
    • Contact:
    • Pro’s:
      • Beautiful, brand new, luxurious hotel
      • Great location
      • Everything about it
    • Cons:
      • None – well I guess pricey, but that goes without saying
    • Side note:
      • I obviously didn’t stay here, but my friend and said it was “awesome”
  • More Kyoto hotel info:
    • Here’s a good website listing: http://www.japaneselifestyle.com.au/Kyoto_hotels
    • There are two very helpful Tourist Information Centers in Kyoto Station that were a great help for me in my quest for lodging. One is on the 2nd floor and the other is on the 9th floor – very easy to find and most people speak surprisingly good English
    • There are a TON of hotels in Kyoto – so if you’re really stressing…don’t.

Some places in/near Kyoto to check out:

  • Gion
    • Main shopping, eating and “partying” district in Kyoto. Lots of shops and restaurants, souvenirs and restaurants
    • Main area to spot real life geisha
    • I could try and explain where it is here, but it’s a very popular area, on every map of Kyoto and a guaranteed easy find. Kyoto is one of the few Japanese cities arranged in a grid – which is SO nice. I will say it is a good 20 – 30 minute walk from the train station, so if you’re not down for that I recommend taking either a taxi (tons of ‘em), a bus (tons of ‘em) or the subway (potentially confusing – but also another adventure in itself)
  • Kiya-machi
    • A very pretty river-walk and sure-fire place to find a great restaurant and/or bar
    • Located just south of the Gion district
    • Street performers, shops, music
    • Restaurants with patios and balconies that overlook the river – really nice
  • Nara
    • If you’re in the area I’ve heard that Nara (a town about an hour from Kyoto) will blow your mind as well. Unfortunately I didn’t make it over there when I was in Kyoto (ran out of money) but, from what people tell me, I really wish I had.


Places to eat:

  • Yoshinoya
    • Japanese fast-food. The first place I ate in Japan. They’re everywhere and serve rice bowls with mainly pork and a few other options. It’s cheap, it’s fast, and it’s wonderful.
  • Gyu-Kaku
    • A chain of Korean-style barbecue restaurants that are all over Japan. If you’re at a train station, odds are there’s a Gyu-Kaku within 500ft. At these Korean-style barbecue (yaki-niku) restaurants you have your own little charcoal grill at your table. The meat/veggies/whatever is brought to your table raw, for you to cook. It’s a blast, though tough if you’re a vegetarian. Most parties with friends or co-workers will at one point or another (and usually more than once) involve yaki-niku. The Gyu-Kaku restaurants have a relaxed, friendly atmosphere and good prices.
  • Izakaya
    • Japanese bars. They’re different than most bars I’ve been to in other parts of the world. More along the lines of what I would consider a restaurant anywhere else – everyone’s seated at their own tables. Izakayas have cheap Japanese food that is usually served in appetizer portions and a wide selection of alcohol as the main attraction.
    • Brief Japanese alcohol guide:
      • Beer – (bee-ru) – Asahi, Sapporo, Suntory, Kirin – they’re all good
      • Sake – (nihon-shu) – Japanese rice wine – not too strong, very good, very Japanese
      • Sho-chu – (sho-chu) – distilled from barley, sweet potato or rice – weaker than whiskey, stronger than Sake and wine – it’s got some bight to it – be careful with this one
      • Cheers – (kam-pai!!!) – say this loudly and often
  • Tskukiji Market
    • The Japanese like their fish. Located in Tokyo, this is the biggest wholesale fish and seafood market in the world. It’s also where you can get some of the freshest sushi you’ve every eaten. Surrounding the actual market the streets are lined with sushi restaurants of every variety. I must’ve eaten there at least 5 times, which is a lot since I lived 2 hours away.
  • Kaiten zushi
    • A type of sushi restaurant where the sushi is paraded past the tables on a conveyor belt – yet another cool Japanese experience. If you see something you like, you grab it and eat it. You can also place special orders with the sushi chefs on hand (e.g. you’ve been hoping for a plate of octopus (tako) and all you’ve seen for the past 10 minutes is tuna (maguro) and squid (ika)).
    • Kappa Zushi is a chain of these “spinning style” sushi restaurants. I’m pretty sure they’re located all over Japan – each plate is 100yen ($1).

      Things to keep in mind when eating out:

    • It’s perfectly acceptable to call (sumimasen=excuse me) any server over at any time to take an order, clear things away, bring the bill, whatever. Many times your table will have a button for you to press that will ring throughout the restaurant alerting the staff that you need something – they’ll be at your table in 3.2 seconds (maybe not literally that fast, but you get the idea).
    • Tipping is neither expected nor practiced.

Further Insight on Japan:

  • Karaoke
    • It’s huge in Japan – usually costs about 1,500yen/hour ($15). You get your own private room that will range in size depending on how many are in your party.
    • Good selection of music from all over the world. You lose your inhibitions (if you had any to begin with) real quickly and next thing you know you’re singing the Backstreet Boys at the top of your lungs and losing your voice for the next couple of days.
  • Matsuri
    • Japanese festivals are a unique look at some traditional and pretty strange, but fun Japanese customs. There are so many national and local festivals that it’s impossible to list them all. Most of the ones I saw, I stumbled upon by chance.
    • Wikipedia has a good listing of major festivals throughout Japan: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Matsuri
    • I also recommend searching the internet for any listings of festivals in the places you plan on visiting. They’re a lot of fun and a seldom seen side of Japan by the average tourist.
  • Helpful Websites:
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