Happy Festivus - I Got Robbed

Funny thing happened the other night. Me and Matt (a buddy from Revolver) went out last Tuesday to catch a couple shows and drink some beer. On our way out to Bellavista (a cheap, college-y, somewhat Bohemian area in Santiago) we noticed a pile of trash on the sidewalk that contained a few potentially useful items. We agreed that if the loot was there on the way home at the end of the night, then we'd snag it.

So we forged ahead for a night of cheap beer, good music, bad food and the usual debauchery that comes with a late night in Bellavista. When we called it quits, we walked back only to find that the trash treasure had been rummaged through and the nightstand Matt had had his eye on was gone. We did some more digging and I uncovered a wallet. It was empty, black, velcro - nothing remarkable. I put the wallet in my back pocket, because I have a tendency to pick up strange stuff when I've got a buzz on (like crabs...just kidding...bad joke). I figured the empty wallet in my back pockett would be, at the very least a decoy for my treks through the shadier jungles of Santiago.

I grabbed my backpack (which contained my laptop) from Matt's place and set off for home - which is about a 15 minute walk down Parque Bustamante - a nice park, but pretty sketchy at night. Normally when I'm out that late with my laptop, I take a cab, but none of them were stopping, so I forged ahead, angry and ready to run at a moment's notice (I've found that the more pissed-off you look when walking alone at night, the less likely people are to jack you; kind of like when George Costanza pretended to be stressed and angry all the time at the office so people would avoid asking him questions and think he was working hard).

One of the charming characteristics to Parque Bustamente is the presence of multiple sects of "working women" (prostitutes) that gather on three to four street corners late at night along my walk home. It's usually nothing threatening and they've rarely said much during past journeys. Not tonight.

I made it past the first group of 'em with no problem, but the second pack livened up at the sight of me, whistling and clicking at the fresh meat (yo). I tried to hurry past, but one worker bee latched on to my arm, begging me for something, rubbing me provactively and strolling with me for five to nine paces. I squirmed out of her clutches said, "No gracias," and looked around to make sure there wasn't anybody about to jump out of a bush with a tire iron or worse.

The coast seemed clear, and I proceeded to check my pockets and backpack to make sure everything was in place. All appeared to be in order, except...

the decoy wallet in my back pocket was gone. Goddamit. Didn't last five minutes.

I turned around to see if I could catch a glimpse of their facial expressions when they realized they made off with an empty wallet, but saw no one and wasn't about to go back. I laughed out loud the rest of the walk home, chalked up a point for myself on the big board and made a note to try and obtain decoys for everything I own.

Trip to Renew Visa in Mendoza, Argentina

I need to update this blog more often. I tell myself that I'm busy and tired - which I generally am - but it comes down to just laziness and excuses for not keeping this thing more up-to-date. For that I apologize and understand if you've stopped checking as often. I'm going to try to update it weekly, even if it's just with a few photos and captions - it's better than nothing (I suspect) and might give me a chance at regaining my already scarce readership.

Given that I am living here on a tourist visa - I have to leave the country (Chile) every three months. I procrastinated during my first quarter year and used my one chance at renewing at the local immigration office (for a US$100 some odd fee) on the first pitch. This meant that I HAD to go to Mendoza, Argentina this past weekend (as it was two weeks before it expired again, Monday was the Virgin Holiday, and I don't get many free weekend-days).

I woke up late on Sunday, caught an easy, cheap mini-bus and was in the quiet, pretty and generally charming town of Mendoza before I knew it (about 6 hours). I met a couple guys from England traveling, accompanied them to their 3-star hotel - so that they could drop their bags off and we could get something to eat/drink and I could find a hostel. Instead they told me that they had an extra bed in their room and I was welcome to it. I accepted and bought a couple rounds of beers.

We had a US$10 "tenedore libre" (all-you-can-eat-meat) dinner that tasted especially good and seemed to keep satisfying my hunger for the next couple days.

Meet Meat

On the way back to the hotel I noticed a casino next door- upon entering the casino, I noticed that the craps table was open - I doubled my money in 20 minutes - god bless craps: one of the funnest games in the world.

Slept like a baby that night - went to the huge park in Mendoza - got lost - found the zoo...

Delightful Toucan


Lazy Ra Ra (I miss my brother)


Hot Ahnfanzel (my sister too)

...got lost again - missed the afternoon buses back to Santiago and was forced to take the night bus that left at 22:30 and arrived at 6:30. I had to teach English at 8:30. Nothing new. By now my morning students are used to my zombie state and we work through it, together.

I'm legal for another 90 days.

Touchdown

Francisco Gonzalez Review, Garabata, Santiago Sun, Horse Interview

This is a garabata (sp?) a bug that latches on to dogs and sucks their blood. It looks like a big tumor (when it's attached) but, "it's not a tumor." I plucked this guy off Leo's (pictured) neck the other day - nasty en every way. We had to burn it because it's full of eggs and if you step on it they'll spread everywhere - nasty right? When it was hooked on, it's legs were completely hidden and only revealed it's true bug form once removed from the pup.

One of the more enjoyable articles I've written so far:
http://www.revolver-magazine.com/live-music-scene/34-live-music-scene/149-francisco-gonzalez.html

It's approaching summertime here and I can tell it's gonna be a different kind of summer than I'm used to. It's hot, but not Arizona hot. It's just as dry - but the killer is the SUN. The depleted ozone layer is apparently extra depleted over Chile, and I believe it. It drains you - you can feel the sun on your skin - even if you're only out in it for a few minutes. I've got 75spf sunscreen and I pretty much sprint from shade to shade, but I'm still red at the end of the day. Scary stuff.

On a lighter note (no pun intended), here's a picture of me interviewing a police horse after Chile beat Argentina - like I think I've mentioned a couple times.

"Chile won tonight.....why the long face?"

More Catching Up: New house, Mil Tambores, Cajon de Maipo, Chile upsets Argentina

- I now live with a bassett hound named Leo. The 4-month canine companionship void in my life is now filled. Last weekend I moved into a new place a bit further out of the city center (you can't get much more centrally located than Plaza Italia - where I was living before), but an easy metro ride to most places. In addition to Leo, my new abode boasts a patio, a ping pong table, a bigger bedroom, kitchen and living room and a bar. I have two roomates - Francisco a Chilean writer/journalist who is about to publish his second book on Patagonia (this one about the food),
and Jen who is from Illinois and teaching English in Santiago - both muy buena onda.

- A few weeks (maybe months) ago I went to Valparaiso for a night to partake in their Mil Tambores (One Thousand Drums) Festival. Everyone drank a lot. Most streets were closed
for the carnival to parade through with drums (obvio), dancing, music and costumes of most likely fascinating origins. I was only there for about 24 hours, but I was able
to see nearby Vina del Mar (feels like a mix of San Diego and Las Vegas) and experience the terrifying late night bus rides that jet between both cities. The vehicles are always
packed and the driver guns it the whole way - it's not a straight shot either. I swear we were on two weels half the time. Valpo can get pretty flaite (shady) at night, so you've gotta have your head on a swivel. This can be a buzzkill at times, but living in Santiago and walking home very late most nights during the week, it's become an uninhibiting habit.

The ring leader

Security (cat-type animal in Carabinero gear)

Valpo during day is different than night

- Also, just got back from a rare trip outside of Santiago: Cajon de Maipo. It's only an hour away and nothing spectacular, but my friend invited me and I went.
Like I just said, nothing spectacular but good to get out of the city.

Unspectacular waterfall

Lame couple who ruined every shot (see background of previous)

more unspectaculariousness

Member of popular Chilean 80's rock band Los Jaivas. The object in my left hand is a completo - a hot dog with salsa, tomatoes and mayonnaise - a staple of Chilean cusine

- As mentioned in earlier posts, I've been covering the Chilean national soccer team's quest to secure a spot in the 2010 World Cup in South Africa. Well, Chile played Argentina last month. To call it a rivalry is like calling relations between Isrealis and Palestinians "unfriendly." Argentina has been stomping on Chile (in soccer and arguably other arenas as well) since they started keeping records of such interactions. The only time Chile had beaten its loathesome neighbors was in a "friendly" match, 35 years ago. They'd never beaten them in official play, until October 15, 2008 - when I attended.

Your welcome Chile.

If only that mojo would work for the Suns and Cubs. (Side note - this year's dose of Cubs-caused October misery wasn't as bad as years past - the distance makes the sting a bit dilluted. I watched game 1 live at a gringo bar with a bunch of gringos - a few cubs fans, but more obnoxious dodger fans. I was doing ok, until Dempster gave up the grand salami - I quickly asked for the bill. Alfonso Soriano's quote the next day said it all: "We're the best team in baseball, we just can't perform in the playoffs.")

So after Chile beat Argentina 1-0 in the biggest sports victory in Chilean history - it was obviously party time...


...and when these people party - shit gets broken and people get hurt. The center for the post game celebration was in Plaza Italia - where I lived at the time. After the game me, Jason and Robert (two other guys from Revolver) walked through madness of breaking glass, screaming, honking and dancing that was taking place in the Plaza and stopped into Pollisimo (my favorite neighborhood food/beer place) for food/beer. Usually when there are large gat

herings in Santiago, it ends with tear gass, water hoses and a bunch of people crying/injured. We thought we were safe inside our Pollisimo sanctuary...we weren't.

When the Carabineros decide it's time to shut things down, they go seamlessly from tolerance to aggression. It's like flipping a switch for them - one minute they're saying, "Ok, take it easy
celebrate responsibly." then they get call from HQ saying, "Ok, shut it down." and the juice is loose with no warning.

- Finally, I'd like to direct you (the reader) to Revolver to satisfy your hunger for the articles I'm writing (which are much easier to digest (i assume) than my entries on this blog),
subjects I'm covering and all the stuff going on in Santiago...should you (the reader) be interested (we need the hits). Here's a teaser for you (the reader):
I went to the 50 Cent concert and met him backstage...story to be posted on Revolver...soon.

Catching Up: My Brother the Marine, Revolver, Santiago Adaptation

I've been neglecting this blog lately due to a lifestyle that has been less fun, more productive and painfully far from nutritious. Fortunately I just got a bottle of multi-vitamins sent to me from home, so things are looking up.

Revolver - the entertainment magazine that I've helped create for the hordes of English-speaking socialites in this smog smothered city - has taken over most waking hours of my day. My role has become more administrative, operational and managerial and less journalistic. Though I enjoy being part of the process and making shit happen, I miss my former gig as a happy-go-lucky music writer. I'm still writing, just not as much. Need to do something about that.

My stint as a news/sports writer for The Santiago Times is nearing its end. I've cut back on my daily news articles and will now only contribute the beloved "Basketball Barrio" (my weekly column on the Dimayor (Chile's professional basketball league)) to THE TIMES.

I've also started teaching English classes to support my two-meal-a-day diet and the strict alcohol regimen that helps me deal with said diet. I've lost 15 pounds since my arrival and haven't enjoyed a job as much. As with most jobs you love, it's not generating much income - so instead of finding a lucrative profession - I sold my truck. I heart bandaids.

One thing that has been bothering me is the little time I've spent playing the guitar. I've had no time for much else outside of the magazine, work and concerts - and my stress levels during the past month have been red-lining - so it might be time to pick up my six-stringed friend from Japan. Ganbarimasu-yo!

Another thing that has had profound effects on my psyche is the time leading up to, and the recent departure of my brother Elliot (see post titled: A visit from my brother) to boot camp and Marine stardom.

To say that I love him, am proud of him and miss him (along with the rest of my family) doesn't need to be said...but it feels good saying it and it makes other people feel good too - so I say it.

Most people who are close to Elliot know the freak substance of human intelligence they're dealing with. I'm not sure if these same people, all of them, know how funny, strong, persistent and driven he is though. The Marines evolved a bit this week, and if they don't know it already, they'll figure it out soon enough.

He scored 98/100 on the test that determines what fields he'll be able to work in (forgive my butchering of the armed forces terminology). He's 24. He's a Crossfit nut. Eye-witness reports say that he was at the front of the squad (troop/platoon/cabin....whatever you call it) as they loaded onto the bus.

I've never been prouder of anyone - and this is just the beginning.

Fiestas Patrias

From September 17th onward, seemingly the entire country shuts for Chile's independence celebration. Nothing was open today (September 18th - the official day of the celebration) and people either go to asados (bbq's) or Fondas (big carnival type parties that are held all weekend at various parks and venues throughout the city). These are pictures from the Parque O'Higgins Fonda.

There was a ton of dancing, but unfortunately/fortunately none captured by camera...yet.

Click here for more on fondas and Fiestas Patrias.

Side note: I have a begrudgingly officially joined the rest of the civilized world on facebook. It's become a necessity in modern communication and is an essential component to creating/maintaining/repairing/ruining any resemblance of a social life. I've found, especially in Santiago, that the question: "Are you on facebook?" is one of the first questions asked upon meeting someone. So, in what will most likely prove to be a fruitless balancing act of accepting/making new friendships and ignoring/ruining old ones, I have conceded and have one more thing to check online. Thank you world.

More Soccer - Chile vs. Colombia

Click here for details of Chile's 4-0 shellacking of Colombia.

Chile vs. Brazil

For my first ever non-high-school-junior-varsity soccer game experience I got press access to the Chile vs. Brazil World Cup qualifying game. I thought we were only getting passes to the Chile vs. Columbia game, but when we picked em up, they had both games included. Nice birthday present.

My credentials were technically only valid for the press room and the seats, but I was able to finagle my way in to the Zona Mixto zoo that was the post-game press area and onto the field at the beginning of the match.

The dingy National Stadium is the biggest in Chile, with a capacity of 65,000, and was used as a torture camp during the Pinochet dictatorship. It definitely felt like death had been there at one point or another.

We got free hamburgers and drinks in the press room.

Brazil won 3-0. Click here for more on the game.

Here are some pictures:

Chile's team

Chile's fans

Chile's uniformed police force (el amigo verde)

Where's the gringo?


Brazil's Diego

Cecily and Ashley - My Sister and Cousin Grace Chile

I felt a bit anxious during the days immediately preceding the arrival of my sister Cecily and my cousin Ashley in Santiago. The texture here can be rough around the edges and I found it ironic that my first visitors in Chile would be two "classy" "sorority" girls (one who we lovingly labeled as a BT (Bratty Teenager) when she was in high-school and the other who's temper tantrum screams during the 1992 Academy Awards summoned a visit from the local authorities), while my visitors in Japan, a country of inhibiting safety and cleanliness, were some of the world's most offensive inhabitants.

Nevertheless, I couldn't wait for them to get here. So much in fact that I went a day early to the airport pick my sister up. Note to all potential visitors: when your host requests your arrival date, do not give your departure date.

Cecily got in a day before Ashley did. During this time we saw some colorful and appropriate Santiago street art, walked around the Castillo Hidalgo, sang the entire soundtrack to The Little Mermaid and stumbled upon a performance of the Chilean mating dance.

Ahnfanzel

Ash got in the next day and we shopped for ski clothes at thrift stores on Bandera street, had the best meal I've had in Santiago (near Bandera street - CP$1,000 (US$2) for a huge piece of fried fish, big plate of french fries and rice and a salad - heavenly) and saw Batman - The Dark Night - the best super-hero movie, if not the best action movie I've ever seen.

After a full day (and night) in the city, we headed for the mountains at 7am - hungover, in great moods - for a day of skiing in the Andes. SkiTotal is the most popular tourist ski company and it was a one stop shop for rentals, gear and a pretty intense ride up and down the mountain.


Unfortunately there were some equipment problems and the girls didn't get much skiing/snowboarding in, but they rolled with the punches. I on the other hand (ever the sympathetic host) covered as much of the mountain as I could. Great skiing, not crowded, and fun runs. It looked lame from the bottom of the slopes because there are literally no trees, but when I got to the top...un.....believable.

The ocean of smog smothering Santiago, the capital of Chile

The Concha y Toro vineyard was next on the agenda, as evidenced here:



The girls went to Valparaiso and Vina del Mar for the next couple of days and I stayed in Santiago because I still had to work. They seemed to have a good time. We left for Pucon, 10 hours to the south, a few hours after they got back. Took the overnight bus. Perfect for the trip - the seats are "semi-cama" (semi-bed) and they lean back far enough to sleep easily.

It was raining when we got in to Pucon and against my better judgment, we followed a guy at the bus station working for a nearby hostel. So glad we did. It was the best hostel I've ever stayed at. Backpackers hostel was cheap (CP$6,000 a night), easy, fun and friendly. The owner had a tour business that made it easy to do a ton of stuff: white-water rafting, zipline, hiking and hot springs. The town reminded me of Telluride, Colorado. We enjoyed.

Zipline

Volcano

Lake 15 minute walk from hostal

For Cecily's last night we ate at one of the best, and most grueling, restaurants I've been to in Santiago - the all you can eat Brazilian meat fest place (not the establishment's official name). No time limit and they'll keep bringing you freshly cooked meat until you call uncle. After dinner we went drinking and ended up passing out in the middle of karaoke. Nice send off. Ashley had a couple more days in Chile and spent them touring vineyards in Santa Cruz. Also a nice send off.


Despite a few cultural differences...

we had a blast.

I love my family.

The Chilean Music Struggle

A Revolver Magazine exclusive:

http://www.revolver-magazine.com/live-music-scene/interview-angelo-pierattini.html


La Moneda

Sunset from my bedroom window